PYRATEX Tropics by PYRATES: Textiles made from vegetal regenerative wool | Knowledge Hub | Circle Economy Foundation
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PYRATEX Tropics by PYRATES: Textiles made from vegetal regenerative wool
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PYRATES, an R&D company and textile supplier, has developed PYRATEX Tropics, a fabric collection containing a vegetal replacement for traditional wool. Collaborating with Lenzing, Flocus, Marchi&Fildi and Studio MLR, PYRATEX Tropics uses fibres from the Kapok flower, a tree endemic to Indonesia, as a vegan wool alternative. The Kapok tree grows on non-agricultural land without human intervention. Harvested by local farmers, the tree remains untouched and continues to regenerate the ecosystem, preserving biodiversity and benefiting the local community. 

Problem

According to the 2019 Pulse of the Fashion Industry report, wool is one of the five most environmentally damaging materials. Livestock raising, including sheep farming, generates vast greenhouse gas emissions and has been identified as a major contributor to climate change. Excrement from sheep also pollutes our land, air and water, causing severe ecological problems when runoff waste causes algal blooms in waterways, depleting oxygen levels and leading to 'dead zones'. Deforestation for land for sheep grazing leads to increased soil salinity, erosion and decreased biodiversity, eradicating wildlife, flora and fauna. Pesticides which are often used to keep sheep free of parasites, and chemicals from wool washing can also contaminate nearby bodies of water. The welfare of sheep is also a considerable area of concern, with many suffering from abuse and poor living conditions. 

Solution

As a regenerative alternative to traditional wool PYRATES Tropics uses fibres from the Kapok flower. The Kapok tree, found in Indonesia, grows without the intervention of humans, requiring no pesticides, fertilizers or insecticides, eliminating hazardous runoff and leaching into waterways and soils. The fibres are harvested from the tree's flowers by local farmers, contributing to local social fairness. The harvesting process doesn't involve cutting down the tree, leaving it intact to regenerate the ecosystem, preserving healthy soil and biodiversity. Kapok fibres are hollow and are covered in a waxy film, making them hydrophobic. According to PYRATES, the fibres are silky soft and hypoallergenic with naturally occurring antibacterial and anti-moth properties. 

Outcome

Kapok fibres can be used for non-woven applications such as garment insulation and home textiles or can be spun into yarn with other blends such as organic cotton or recycled polyester. Currently, the softness of the fibre makes it almost impossible to create a 100% Kapok yarn; though blended with other fibres, it adds incredible softness and considerably cuts down on water consumption. 'For example, if 1kg of cotton can produce four t-shirts, a 70:30 cotton/kapok blend will do the same and save you 3000 litres of water' [Finisterre]. The properties of Kapok fibre make it suitable for use in fashion, performance, home textiles, automotive, medical and other industrial products. 

Kapok is a regenerative fibre, meaning it preserves soil health, animal wildlife and local social fairness. However, as PYRATES states on their website, all PYRATEX fabrics are produced in Europe to maintain a visible supply chain. The Kapok fibre is from a tree endemic to Indonesia and could result in additional carbon emissions acquired through importing and potentially complexify the supply chain. 

Additional information

Case study submitted to the platform as part of the World Circular Textiles Day Collection.

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