Business case

Impact on the availability of resources as well as their effect on living organisms, ecosystems, and components of the environment.

Ecological Impact

Reduced green house gas emissions released into the biosphere

Reduce Emissions (SDG13)

Reduced use of virgin materials and/or an increase of the use of secondary and bio-based materials

Reduce Material Consumption (SDG12)

Minimise waste through diversion: Instead of sending waste to landfill, it is redirected into other industrial processes for handling, treatment, recycling, recovery, or reuse in various forms. 

Minimise waste through design: At the outset of a process of project, plan and design such that there is zero waste or minimal waste during production, use, and at end of life. 

Minimise Waste (SDG12)

Producing and providing business and consumer goods and services

Goods and Services

Producing textile and leather products and processing them into apparel and accessories

Fashion and Textiles

Ensure renewable, reusable, non-toxic resources are utilised as materials and energy in an efficient way

Prioritise regenerative resources

Account for the systems perspective during the design process, to use the right materials, to design for appropriate lifetime and to design for extended future use

Design for the future

Utilise bio-based, reusable, non-toxic and non-critical materials

Regenerative materials

Replace energy sources with less impactful alternatives and enact energy efficiency measures

Regenerative energy

Designing to enable multiple uses and lifecycles of a product and its materials

Design for cyclability

Using bio-based materials such as bioplastics, mushroom-based materials, etc.

Alternative bio-based materials and inputs

Using renewable energy like solar, wind, etc. or renewable fuels like biomass, etc.

Renewable energy, fuels

Designing products to remove any barriers to recycling and enable easy recyclability

Design for recycling

VISION:
Raw materials are renewable, recyclable and safe, kept in continual circulation.

DETAIL:
Imagine a time when…the raw materials that are used to make things are sourced from existing products and regenerative agriculture, via carbon negative and climate neutral processes. Biodegradable raw materials are used for products with biodegradable end routes. Toxic chemicals have been washed out of the global materials pool, disposed of safely and replaced with beneficial alternatives. Virgin fibres made from fossil fuels have been banned, while secondary synthetic fibres, derived from what was already in the system, are kept in constant circulation as a resource. Circularity accounting methods, built on science-based metrics, help to manage a balanced system of resources, across all industries, and in line with the planet’s environmental limits.

Raw Materials and Planetary Boundaries

Prioritise regenerative resources [Textiles]

Renewable energy, fuels [Textiles]

Regenerative energy [Textiles]

Slow strategies aim to keep materials in use for as long as possible, for example through design for durability and repairability. A more circular economy is also a slower one: materials, components, and products—and even buildings and infrastructure—that we lock in stocks are made to last. This will lower material demand in the long run, in essence also serving to narrow resource flows.

Slow

Regenerate strategies phase out hazardous or toxic materials and processes and substitute them with regenerative biomass resources. A circular economy aims to mimic natural cycles—by shifting to more regenerative farming practices, for example—while also maximising the share of circular biomass that enters the economy. Regeneration can happen both at the systems level (by designing regenerative processes) as well as at the product level (by switching synthetic to organic fertilisers, for example).

Regenerate

Impacts

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Industries

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The principles of a circular economy concern designing out waste, regenerating ecosystems and keeping items in use. Decoupling the economy from material flows—improving the rate of resource productivity faster than the economic growth rate—is also a consistent guide. By evolving with the growing number of applications of circular economy principles, and consolidating these strategies across thematic areas, Circle Economy’s Key Elements Framework (KE) renders the elements of the circular economy salient and serves as a basis to derive contextual strategies and interventions. 


The Framework consists of:
- Core Elements: Activities directly handling product or material flows; and uniquely,
- Enabling Elements: those that remove obstacles for core actors.


Key elements of the circular economy

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Circle Economy's framework of strategies and activities that define the circular economy

It is 2050.  Full systems change has taken place. This wouldn’t have been possible without the immediate action and radical steps taken from 2020 onwards. Many targets had to be identified in the early 2020s and achieved by 2030 to ensure that the 2050 goal happened in full. A sense of urgency, turbo stakeholder collaboration, supportive government regulation and clear, data driven targets enabled the mindsets and systems change needed to transform to a fully circular textiles ecosystem.

A circular economics model underpins what we have created. It reflects and supports a living organism made up of makers, users and restorers, interacting across vibrant and interconnected networks. Checks and balances, alongside transparency and accountability, ensure a healthy system. Financial, environmental, and social metrics have the purpose of serving communities and the planet. There is shared ownership of profit and loss – across all three metrics – throughout the value chain.

This is what we’ve achieved over the last 30 years:

WCTD Themes

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The Textiles Key Elements Framework is based on the main Key Elements Framework which renders the elements of the circular economy salient and serves as a basis to derive textile-focused strategies and interventions. 

The framework is action-based to provide users with concrete inspiring exemples to prevent and reduce the textiles waste mountain. 

The Framework consists of:
- 3 core elements: activities directly handling textile product or material flows; and uniquely,
- 4 Enabling Elements: those that remove obstacles for core actors.

Under which strategies provide further detail. Finally, each strategy consists of a diversity of tangible solutions which are framed in relation to the sought outcome. 

'Click through each of the seven elements cards below to explore the framework and circular textile-focused case studies in more depth!'

This framework was developed in collaboration with Circle Economy's textiles team. Read more about it [here]( https://www.circle-economy.com/programmes/textiles). 

Textiles Key Elements Framework

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 An action-based framework for apparel brands working towards circular strategies

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Based on the work of [Bocken et al. (2016)](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/309699661_Product_design_and_business_model_strategies_for_a_circular_economy), the Four Flows Framework serves as a simple framework for managing resource flows in a circular economy by using less (Narrow), using for longer (Slow), using again (Cycle), and using clean, regenerative materials and energy (Regenerate).

These different principles of circular economy can be applied to our socioeconomic metabolism: we can design stocks like buildings, infrastructure, machinery, and vehicles to be rich resource mines for the future, and design manufactured goods and consumables to be cycled and made regenerative. Furthermore, the focus must also centre on getting more value out of fewer materials. Achieving the aims of a circular economy—minimising material use, regenerating the Earth, and preventing material losses—can be done through these four key strategies mentioned above.

Source: Circle Economy. (2023). *[The circularity gap report 2023](https://www.circularity-gap.world/2023)* (p.22). Amsterdam: Circle Economy. 

Four Flows Framework

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As far as greenhouse gases go, carbon dioxide gets a lot of attention. And rightly so: It sticks around in the atmosphere for up to 1,000 years. But another gaseous culprit, methane, while comparatively short-lived, is 25 times more proficient than CO2 at trapping heat. The EPA recommends that “achieving significant reductions would have a rapid and significant effect on atmospheric warming potential.”Mark Herrema [Photo: courtesy AirCarbon]On this week’s episode of World Changing Ideas, we explore the concept of methane removal, and speak to one company doing it, Newlight Technologies. Cofounder and CEO Mark Herrema walks us through how Newlight is not only removing methane from the atmosphere, but simultaneously generating an everyday product, called AirCarbon, with the potential to reduce plastic use.It all started with . . . cow burps. Of course, that’s one of the greatest emitters of methane into the atmosphere—and, contrary to popular belief, they are more culpable for toxic emissions than dung. Reading about bovine belches spurred Herrema to think about a market-driven way to drive down greenhouse gases. “With some quick napkin math, it turned out that each cow was burping about $20 worth of value into the air every year,” he tells us on the show. “If you have a thousand-cow farm, that’s $20,000 of value into the air. Well, that’s a lot of money.”After a decade of toying with its technology, Newlight landed on success. Newlight sources methane mostly from landfills, coal mines, and agricultural digesters, which catch methane from cow feces. On the episode, Herrema explains the process in depth, but in a nutshell: The company pumps methane through a bioreactor filled with microorganisms that feed on the gas. “They’re growing,” he says. “They’re having a party. They’re also starting to build up this AirCarbon ‘muscle’ inside their cells.”[Photo: courtesy AirCarbon]That “muscle” is a molecule that Newlight can extract, purify into a powder, and then melt into pellets. “Once we’ve got the pellets, that’s basically the currency of the old plastics industry,” Herrema says. They form the basis for a nature-based polymer that can replace oil-based plastics used in so many of our products. “Because it’s made in every ecosystem on Earth, it’s an environmentally degradable material, similar to a banana peel or a tree leaf,” he says.AirCarbon products are available in fashion items like sunglasses and wallets, along with kitchenware like drinking straws and cutlery. The latter is now sold at Target and is being piloted at Shake Shack. As if you needed another reason to go to Shake Shack.

The year 2022 is branded with an era of mindfulness and fashion houses across the globe espouse this cause in their delightfully diverse ways. The new hemlines marching down the coveted runways are celebrated for more than just their visceral value–with the focus shifting on the type of fabrics used, their footprint and their source. While it doesn’t take a fashion critic to notice that a renaissance is underway in the industry, H&M’s latest Innovation Story confirms that the much-needed green fashion wave is not on a too distant horizon. The Swedish giant has dropped its fifth sustainability initiative that invites customers to fall in love with materials made from waste. If you are in dire need to reinvigorate your neutrals, this dopamine-inducing collection is apt for your capsule and promises to transcend seasons and trends. With impeccably tailored separates that have the legs to go the distance and trans-seasonal key-pieces crafted with repurposed, recycled and low impact materials–many made from recycled garments, ocean-bound plastic or other waste materials–the Cherish Waste Collection is a harbinger of more sustainable times to come. Oversized leopard-print coat with heart-shaped spots
H&M“This collection is a celebration of love, filled with wardrobe heroes that feel comfortable to wear, even if they are dramatic, statement pieces,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor at H&M, about the treasured roster. “As a business, we have ambitious sustainability targets–we are well on the way to achieving our goal of using more sustainably sourced and recycled materials in all of our collections by 2030, for example, with the figure so far at 80%. But we know we need to do more," Johansson says of ‘Innovation Stories’ that launched at the beginning of 2021 as a platform to showcase the cutting-edge work at H&M in sustainability and innovative materials.As the name suggests, the meticulously curated pieces from the collection are intended to be cherished and shared. The pieces also come with labels in their linings where customers can write heartfelt messages when they want to give the garment a new life by passing it on to someone new. While the silhouettes provide a canvas for creativity and the novel prints coupled with mood-enhancing hues capture the essence of this new-age collection, there is so much more to it than what meets the eye. Material exploration has gained some serious mileage in the design ateliers of the house and they have experimented with numerous mediums that are firsts for H&M, including MIRUM®, recycled silk and AirCarbon™. While recycled polyester takes form as bubble gum-pink heart-shaped evening dress, pale blue puff-ball mini and the pink knitted spike dress, the frill-trimmed pink shirt from the arresting collection is brought to life with recycled silk made from waste silk. Lending the same care, craft and cutting-edge construction to accessories, the house has designed a studded bracelet and a pair of court shoes using MIRUM®–a plant-based leather free of plastic and made from plant fibres, vegetable oil and minerals along with a convertible chain necklace and rhinestone earrings featuring black hearts made from AirCarbon™–a biomaterial made by natural microorganisms that use air and carbon from greenhouse gases that would otherwise go into the atmosphere. The highly-anticipated launch–slated to hit stores from 21st April–also coincides with the Global Change Awards hosted by the H&M Foundation that aims to make the fashion industry planet positive. The foundation awards five innovations–carefully picked out from umpteen submissions from across the globe–a total €1 Million Grant to scale up their early-stage projects and to applaud their ethical and eco-conscious efforts. India’s big win at the international platform will be brought to light by CottonAce by Wadhwani AI as they succeeded in taking up the top spot amongst the 5 finalists. Their relentless efforts aimed at programming an AI solution that reduces pesticide use, increases yield and raises incomes for smallholder cotton farmers. Actor and sustainability influencer, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja is also a part of the expert panel and has played an active role in the GCA Impact Accelerator interacting with the winners in different ways. In an exclusive chat with Vogue India, the multi-hyphenate reveals the details of her collaboration with the H&M Foundation and the winner Wadhwani AI shares their success story. Read on for the full interview —This association is very meaningful to me as the initiative led by the H&M Foundation seeks early-stage innovations which address the earth’s global commons through game-changing solutions and innovations from several winners. With all the innovation and creativity the Global Change wonderfully brings together, I feel hopeful for the future of fashion.Being part of the expert panel was an enriching experience as the innovations we see from the Global Change Awards are truly inspiring. Scaling these innovations from different parts of the world can really transform the industry and help us get a step closer to circular fashion, transforming a fashion industry into a planet positive one and together through a collaborative effort, fulfilling the UN Sustainable Development goals by 2030. What was your take away from this year’s selection of Global Change Awards winners?The programme created by H&M Foundation, Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology is designed to enable accelerated scaling of the winning ideas through business and tech readiness, innovation readiness as well as the industry access and investor readiness. It’s so inspiring to see that one of the winners this year comes from India–CottonAce by Wadhwani AI is using artificial intelligence to help smallholder cotton farmers increase yield and income while reducing excessive pesticide use. Their app CottonAce offers real-time guidance and recommendations to cotton farmers that target pests at the right time and with the most effective measures, reducing the risk of damaging their crops. The GCA 2022 takes a more holistic approach in order for the fashion industry to achieve fundamental change before 2030. I am so proud to be part of this journey.What is the biggest challenge in your view that the fashion industry faces today when it comes to adopting sustainability?It takes a lot of different and strong actions for the industry to become sustainable. Making and offering sustainable fashion to all is what we need to work towards together.I feel that’s what makes this initiative truly special-it provides an urgent opportunity to catalyze important innovations and it seeks tomorrow’s game-changers–bringing something not yet on the market or not yet implemented that are planet positive alternatives. Wadhwani AI:How did CottonAce emerge as an idea? What inspired you to pursue this innovation? The problem of pest attacks and infestation in cotton farming—and its associated detrimental effects—has been long standing. India has the largest area under cotton cultivation in the world. Its estimated six million cotton farmers face the constant risk of severe crop damage. The traditional approach towards pest management has involved farmers reaching out to local agricultural agencies about the issues affecting their farms, with the agencies typically reverting with their prescribed measures in a week or more. Often, by the time the farmers hear from the experts, their crop has already been irreparably damaged.CottonAce is an AI-powered early pest warning and advisory system being developed by Wadhwani AI. The CottonAce app can be installed on basic smartphones, and has an easy-to-use, multilingual interface. The app helps farmers to correctly identify the types of pests at their farms, and their density, and offers early warnings and advisories to farmers. This enables them to act on the advice in a timely and effective way in order to combat infestation and ensure a healthy crop yield.In 2022, we are planning one of the largest deployments of any AI-based pest management solution, with a target of over 50,000 lead farmers. Outside of the benefits directly related to the solution, the deployment has resulted in an increased awareness of trap-based pest management, and farmers becoming more familiar with a technology-based approach.  What has your experience with local producers and farmers revealed to you about sustainability?In the past three years, we have met and spoken to hundreds of smallholder cotton farmers in India. These farmers heavily depend on natural sources for irrigation, and face challenges related to financial debt, low yield due to pest attacks, and erratic weather patterns. Organic cotton farmers face similar challenges but have a better understanding about sustainable farming practices, since they have access to training  from local organizations around sustainable farming practices. Also read: H&M’s Innovation Circular Design Story champions minimal waste at the end of a garment’s life cycle Why young shoppers are investing in sustainability7 sustainable fashion and beauty shopping platforms for the conscious consumer 

       Regenerative foodware made from AirCarbon®  that works for people and the planet.    Shop Now   
 
                  
           As a biomaterial made by life, AirCarbon is naturally home and industrially compostable, helping to prevent the accumulation of plastic in the ocean and give nature a chance to restore itself.       
 
       Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award  US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY   “Thank you for your commitment
to safeguarding our planet.”  Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award US Environmental Protection Agency      Biomaterial of the Year  NOVA INSTITUTE      Technology Pioneer Award  WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM      Innovation of the Year  POPULAR SCIENCE      “one of the 100 most significant innovations of the year”  R&D MAGAZINE      New Energy Pioneer Award  BLOOMBERG NEF      Technology Excellence Award  PC MAGAZINE      Leadership Award  ENERGY VISION     

           
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Newlight is a Chemical company based in the US. Uses air and greenhouse gas to make the carbon-negative biomaterial, AirCarbon

 NEWLIGHT TECHNOLOGIES, INC.

Newlight Technologies uses natural ocean microorganisms to make&nbsp;PHB&nbsp;from air and greenhouse gasand calls it AirCarbon™. AirCarbon™&nbsp;is PHB (Polyhydroxybutyrate) and PHB is made naturally in almost all known life on Earth, from microorganisms and trees to the human body.