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This collection has been built by a community of passionate researchers, students, and industry professionals as part of <a href="https://worldcirculartextilesday.com/" target="_blank">World Circular Textiles Day</a> (WCTD). 


World Circular Textiles Day takes place every year on 8th October.  Our vision is to galvanise the collective ambitions and goals of people, organisations and businesses to reach a fully circular textiles world by 2050. Our mission is to provide a framework for circularity stakeholders to develop and deliver a collaborative, evolving roadmap and to chart circularity’s momentum annually from the 8th of October until 2050.

What does fully circular by 2050 mean?
- Shared textile resources, in the form of products and raw materials, are kept in **continual circulation**.
- Virgin resources are **replaced with circular materials**.
- Dignity, equity, and equality for the **people** involved in all parts of the circular value chain.

We need to know where we stand today to chart how to get to 100% Circularity by 2050. What circular activity is currently happening in the textiles and apparel industry, and where in the world is it happening? The WCTD Collection aims to answer this question by building the world’s largest digital library of circular textiles case studies. 

World Circular Textiles Day is proud to be supported by our 2022-23 Circular Hero Partners:
[Lenzing](https://www.lenzing.com/), [Texaid](https://retailsolutions.texaid.com/), [Bank & Vogue](https://www.bankvogue.com/), [Usha yarns limited](https://ushayarns.com/), [The Conduit](https://www.theconduit.com/), and [Asia Pacific Rayon](https://www.aprayon.com/en/)

## Want to contribute to the WCTD Collection? Sign up and add your circular textiles activities.





World Circular Textiles Day

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Article / Report

Impacts on the social fabric of the community and well-being of the individuals and families.

Social Impact

Impact on increased knowledge and understanding as a result of the case study

Increase Awareness

Producing and providing business and consumer goods and services

Goods and Services

Producing textile and leather products and processing them into apparel and accessories

Fashion and Textiles

 Develop research, structure knowledge, encourage innovation networks and disseminate findings with integrity


Strengthen and advance knowledge

VISION:
Raw materials are renewable, recyclable and safe, kept in continual circulation.

DETAIL:
Imagine a time when…the raw materials that are used to make things are sourced from existing products and regenerative agriculture, via carbon negative and climate neutral processes. Biodegradable raw materials are used for products with biodegradable end routes. Toxic chemicals have been washed out of the global materials pool, disposed of safely and replaced with beneficial alternatives. Virgin fibres made from fossil fuels have been banned, while secondary synthetic fibres, derived from what was already in the system, are kept in constant circulation as a resource. Circularity accounting methods, built on science-based metrics, help to manage a balanced system of resources, across all industries, and in line with the planet’s environmental limits.

Raw Materials and Planetary Boundaries

VISION:
Products and services are designed for multiple use and material value retention, with maximum positive impact.

DETAIL: 
Imagine a time when…products flow via optimal collection and distribution streams into reusable and repairable product platforms. Reuse and access models are dominant, and products are designed for multiple recirculation before biodegrading (if designed to do so), or being broken down into reusable raw materials for production. People only consume what they need. Production and consumption wastes have been fully eliminated and multifunctional, season-less and timeless fashions are the norm, yet still fulfil our human need for expression and creativity without constraint. All business models, organisations, governments and citizens play a role in maintaining a healthy, functioning circular ecosystem.

Products and Services

VISION:
People are valued and supported in an equitable, socially just and resilient society.

DETAIL:
Imagine a time when…people and communities are at the heart of any sustainable and circular system. The planet thrives, enabling us to survive with balance and abundance. People are no longer passive consumers, but proactive participants. The ‘makers’ who design, build, reprocess and recirculate products throughout the value chain are treated equally and are equitable partners in shaping and benefitting from the system. Textiles/garments can be produced and repurposed locally as well as centrally. A blend of craft methods alongside more automated production provides regionalised, multi-faceted perspectives and fulfilling livelihoods, be they high- or low-tech. Wealth gaps are minimised and dignity, equity, equality is a reality for all.

People and Society

Archetypes

CE Materials

Impacts

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Industries

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Materials

Nace Sectors

The principles of a circular economy concern designing out waste, regenerating ecosystems and keeping items in use. Decoupling the economy from material flows—improving the rate of resource productivity faster than the economic growth rate—is also a consistent guide. By evolving with the growing number of applications of circular economy principles, and consolidating these strategies across thematic areas, Circle Economy’s Key Elements Framework (KE) renders the elements of the circular economy salient and serves as a basis to derive contextual strategies and interventions. 


The Framework consists of:
- Core Elements: Activities directly handling product or material flows; and uniquely,
- Enabling Elements: those that remove obstacles for core actors.


Key elements of the circular economy

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Circle Economy's framework of strategies and activities that define the circular economy

Topics

Urban Opportunities

Whilst no two countries are the same, there are still obvious similarities between some of them, with discernible development patterns and parallels in evidence. Common problems and shared solutions help place unique country identities and individual issues in context.

Whilst this classification is far from clear-cut and exhibits some overlap, it does underline how the discourse on transitioning to a circular economy needs to account for both differences and commonalities, if we are to arrive at a more strategic and instructive analysis. It also allows to highlight a set of key themes that are likely to be central to the countries that fall under the respective profiles. 

Country profiles (Build, Grow, Shift)

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A framework to distinguish between different country profiles and their circular transition needs.

It is 2050.  Full systems change has taken place. This wouldn’t have been possible without the immediate action and radical steps taken from 2020 onwards. Many targets had to be identified in the early 2020s and achieved by 2030 to ensure that the 2050 goal happened in full. A sense of urgency, turbo stakeholder collaboration, supportive government regulation and clear, data driven targets enabled the mindsets and systems change needed to transform to a fully circular textiles ecosystem.

A circular economics model underpins what we have created. It reflects and supports a living organism made up of makers, users and restorers, interacting across vibrant and interconnected networks. Checks and balances, alongside transparency and accountability, ensure a healthy system. Financial, environmental, and social metrics have the purpose of serving communities and the planet. There is shared ownership of profit and loss – across all three metrics – throughout the value chain.

This is what we’ve achieved over the last 30 years:

WCTD Themes

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The Circular City Actions Framework provides urban changemakers with five complementary strategies they can use to start working towards a more circular system. 

The framework is action-based to provide users with concrete strategic directions and showcase the desired outcomes of each strategy. 
The framework consists of five complementary **strategies**, under which **sub-strategies** provide further detail. Finally, each sub-strategy consists of a diversity of tangible **solutions** which are framed in relation to key thematic areas. 

Note: solutions are currently focused on:
- 🍏 **Food systems**
- 🏢  **Built environment**
- 👕📱  **Consumer goods**
- ⚡ **Energy Systems**
- 🚌 **Mobility Systems**
- 💧 **Water Systems**

More thematic areas are coming soon...

'Click through each of the five strategy cards below to explore the framework and circular economy case studies in more depth!'



This framework was developed in collaboration with ICLEI, Metabolic and Ellen MacArthur Foundation with support from the MAVA Foundation. Read more about it [here]( https://circulars.iclei.org/action-framework/). 



Circular City Actions Framework

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An action-based framework for local governments working towards circular cities

Test Framework

Challenges

Based on the ongoing ISO standardisation process, a taxonomy has been defined under which to cluster indicators to measure circularity. 

ISO Taxonomy

If managed well, the transition to the circular economy will have multiple benefits for the labour market, including the opening up of job opportunities, raising job standards and reducing inequalities through a global redistribution of value. But a positive transition to circularity for work and workers must be underpinned by three pillars: upskilling the workforce, quality of work and inclusive job opportunities. Find out more and explore cases that illustrate these pillars below.

Circular Jobs Initiative Pillars

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A positive transition to circularity for work and workers must be underpinned by three core pillars.

This is a survey that dives into understanding the policy environment around specific circular solutions. 

The survey is divided into five sections, based on the five key elements of the Circular Cities Action Framework. 
Each section asks 2-3 questions to explore which policies may or may not be present within your city to support a transition towards a circular economy. 

You are not alone! Each question provides some practical examples from cities around the world that have adopted a certain policy to support their transition. This can help to compare with your city - is your city doing something similar?

The survey answers should be based on your current knowledge, and not illicit additional research - ! Please make use of the Not sure option as appropriate.


Ganbatte Cities Policy Tracker [Food]

Ganbatte Cities - Policy tracker policy instruments

Policy Tracker - TEST

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Based on the work of [Bocken et al. (2016)](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/309699661_Product_design_and_business_model_strategies_for_a_circular_economy), the Four Flows Framework serves as a simple framework for managing resource flows in a circular economy by using less (Narrow), using for longer (Slow), using again (Cycle), and using clean, regenerative materials and energy (Regenerate).

These different principles of circular economy can be applied to our socioeconomic metabolism: we can design stocks like buildings, infrastructure, machinery, and vehicles to be rich resource mines for the future, and design manufactured goods and consumables to be cycled and made regenerative. Furthermore, the focus must also centre on getting more value out of fewer materials. Achieving the aims of a circular economy—minimising material use, regenerating the Earth, and preventing material losses—can be done through these four key strategies mentioned above.

Source: Circle Economy. (2023). *[The circularity gap report 2023](https://www.circularity-gap.world/2023)* (p.22). Amsterdam: Circle Economy. 

Four Flows Framework

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The Higg Index, one of the fashion industry’s most well-known sustainability rating systems, came under sustained criticism this month. A New York Times article called out the index as too favorable to synthetic materials made from fossil fuels; the Intercept dug into the metric’s controversial ties to fast fashion; and the Norway Consumer Authority banned its use (link in Norwegian) in marketing to consumers.Now the organization that oversees the ratings is mothballing its consumer-facing portion, and expediting an independent review of the system’s data and methodology.What is the Higg Index?The Higg Index is a widely used suite of tools created for the fashion industry to assess the sustainability of the materials used in their products. It was created in 2011 by a group of industry heavyweights, including H&M, Walmart, Nike, Levi’s, and Patagonia. It is maintained by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and their technology partner Higg. The SAC has about 250 member brands.In 2021, a consumer-facing portion of the Higg suite was created, which allows shoppers to view the environmental impact of individual items, including how it compares on greenhouse gas emissions, fossil fuels, water use, and water pollution. That consumer-facing effort was suspended on June 27.What are criticisms of the Higg Index?The index has been criticized on a number of fronts:🍃 The system favors synthetic fabrics, which are made from fossil fuels, positioning them as more sustainable than natural fabrics. Synthetics are the backbone material of the fast-fashion industry. The SAC says, however, that comparing these materials is not what the tool is meant to do.📈 There isn’t transparency in the underlying data. Access to some data are available only to companies that pay a fee.🤝 Its ties to the fashion industry are too strong. Many of the founding retail members of the index, and members of the SAC itself, are the largest brands in fashion. This could chill the coalition’s willingness to criticize underperforming brands, as those companies also fund them.🛍 It can be misleading. This is what the Norwegian Consumer Authority (NCA) decided on June 16 when it banned the use (Norwegian) of the index in marketing, and issued a warning to H&M to curb its use on their website. “SAC should not allow its partners to use the Higg MSI for marketing purposes towards consumers,” the consumer authority wrote to SAC after their ruling.🗑 The analysis of environmental impact does not include an item’s full life-cycle. It doesn’t follow a garment from farm (or oil well), through manufacturing and use, to rubbish pile. It includes only the impact of the materials until the production of the fabric is completed. It also fails to include important sources of emissions, like from the manure used in cultivation.The problem with certification programs like HiggAs the fashion industry takes stock of its role in the climate crisis, and consumers have become more environmentally conscious, certification programs are on the rise. The Higg Index may be one of the most widely-used, but it is far from the only sustainability initiative that, critics say, actually distract from fashion’s environmental concerns.“Certification in general is sort of this false promise, and it is this license to greenwash,” said George Harding-Rolls, a campaign manager at not-for-profit Changing Markets Foundation.Certification programs like the Higg Index often trivialize the amount of change that the fashion industry needs to take to become sustainable.“I do welcome the scrutiny of the Higg, but we’re not talking about overproduction, we’re not talking about the fundamental business model that [fashion brands] exist in,” says Harding-Rolls. “[Certifications are] sort of like flies around a dead horse. It is a distraction and there does need to be a more serious conversation about systemic change and not just these bolt-on little patches.”

     The Higg Brand & Retail Module (Higg BRM) guides brands & retailers on their sustainability journeys and identifies hotspots and opportunities for improvement along their global value chain. This helps brands and retailers align and embed corporate responsibility strategies into department operations.  
        Businesses of all sizes can use the Higg BRM to measure the environmental and social impacts of their value chain.  
   From materials sourcing to a product’s end of use, the Higg BRM assesses the following life cycle stages of a product as it goes through a company’s operations, identifying sustainability risks and impacts:

Management System
Product
Supply Chain
Packaging
Use & End of Use
Retail Stores
Offices
Transportation
Distribution Centers
  
               By using the Higg BRM, conscientious businesses can track, measure, and share their sustainability progress with value chain partners, consumers, investors, and other key stakeholders.
Developed by industry leaders, this trusted assessment helps brands and retailers establish and maintain strong corporate social responsibility strategies and practices that promote the well-being of workers and the planet.  
   Consumers are increasingly curious about where and how their clothes are made. They want to vote with their wallets and buy apparel and footwear that reflect their values.
Consumers want to support brands and retailers that are socially and environmentally sustainable and transparent about their business practices.  
               The Higg BRM establishes a global standard for fashion brands and retailers to measure and talk about sustainability performance. For the first time we will have comparable data, for us and the brands to identify improvement areas. As an independent and globally structured organization, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition is positioned to drive this necessary change in the fashion industry.     Kate Heiny, Director of Corporate Responsibility, Zalando  
   Brands and retailers can use the Higg BRM to report progress on industry initiatives like Science Based Targets, the UN Sustainable Development Goals, and the G7 Fashion Pact.
The Higg BRM assesses 11 environmental impacts:   
   
Animal Welfare
Biodiversity/Land Use/Habitat loss
Deforestation
Energy/Fuel Use (or Fossil Fuel Depletion)
Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Emissions
Air Emissions/Air Pollution (non GHG)
  
   
Solid Waste
Hazardous Waste
Chemical Hazard/Mgmt
Water Use/Water Scarcity
Wastewater/Water Pollution/Eutrophication
  
         The Higg BRM enables brands and retailers to create stronger corporate social responsibility strategies that improve the well-being of workers across the value chain. By prioritizing employee well-being, companies support local communities, champion women in the workforce, and strengthen the global economy.
The Higg BRM assesses 16 social impacts:  
   
Forced Labor or Human Trafficking
Child Labor
Wages and Benefits
Working Hours
Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining
Health and Safety
Access to Water and Sanitation
Decent Work
  
   
Discrimination, Harassment, and Abuse
Sexual Harassment & Gender-Based Violence
Bribery and Corruption
Right to Health
Right to Privacy
Right to Security of the Person
Minorities’ and Communities’ Rights
Land Rights
  
   

      Written by Simon Glover	    Published: 30 May 2022        OSLO – The Higg Index Sustainability Profile, which aims to help consumers choose garments based on their environmental impact, could be outlawed in Norway after the country's consumer watchdog raised 'greenwashing' concerns. The Norwegian Consumer Authority is currently considering whether or not the use of the consumer-facing label for individual products is in breach of Norway's Marketing Act. Such a decision would be seen as a blow to the ambitions of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), which owns the Higg Index suite of tools, and the Higg Co, its technology partner. Log in or subscribe to see this content   

 TOPICS: Higg Index, Material Sustainability Index, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Greenwashing, Polyester, Cotton, Life Cycle Assessment LCA’s, environmental impact. EPISODE TRANSCRIPT:
Welcome to the Fashion Unearthed podcast. If you need help navigating the fashion industry sustainably, you have come to the right place. I'm your host Belinda Humphrey and my hope is to simplify the fashion industry so that businesses can make the best decisions for people, planet and product. Hello, and welcome to episode 48 of the Fashion Unearthed podcast. My voice is back. So I'm back with another episode and this one is about something that is making waves in the fashion industry. But before I get to that, a quick little reminder to sign up to my monthly newsletter. If you're a fashion business owner and interested in sustainability within fashion, go to belindahumphrey.com and you'll also get a free guide on 10 Quick, sustainable switches you can implement immediately in your product development and design process. So onto today's episode, some of you might already know what Higg is but as a refresher, the Higg index is a set of five tools launched by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition in 2011 and it's designed to measure and compare the environmental impact of different materials lifecycle assessment LCA data. The topics include water use, carbon emission, and labour conditions. So like I said, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition set up the index and the original collaborators that led to that were Patagonia and Walmart. Whilst the sustainable apparel coalition is a nonprofit, according to their website, to use the Higg suite of tools, it starts from $2,000 a year depending on the size of your business. Now within the set of five tools, there is one in particular called the Material Sustainability Index, the MSI and its purpose is to both internally quantify the impact of a material at design stage and use within customer facing marketing messaging. And it's this module in particular that has caused a stir firstly within the industry, farmers in particular, and now with the Norwegian Consumer Protection Authority, which I'll get to a little bit later. But first, let's delve into that tool a little bit deeper. It reportedly just looks at the production of materials cradle to gate so to speak, nothing after the product entering the store is measured, which is confusing in itself because you would think a lifecycle assessment would include everything from raw materials to when it reaches the end of life. But that aside, why this is important is because of the impact of fossil fuel fibres down the line in the form of micro plastics, which can't biodegrade and end up either incinerated or in landfill for years is common knowledge, however, this area of impact isn't currently included. Other criticisms of the underlying data which is very narrow, based on global averages, and doesn't accurately represent the overall sustainability of materials and data used to base the lifecycle assessment reports on were reportedly funded by the synthetics industry. But Jeremy Lardeau the SAC's  vice president does openly admit that the SAC is not the source of any LCA data, they simply consolidate the best available LCA data in a single place and rely on the industry sectors and the practitioners for the data. And whilst that may be true, what happens when the best available data of material doesn't represent the whole of the industry of how that material is mostly made? According to an article by Intercept the Higg index uses a lifecycle analysis of polyester produced by plastics Europe, which gather data on European produced polyester from 2009. However, 93% of polyester is produced in Asia, where manufacturing and energy standards vary wildly between nations and companies. Another example comes from the silk industry. Recently, the International Sericulture Commission an Indian government body representing the country's silk industry, registered an official complaint about Silk's score on the Higg index. They claimed that silk as a fibre is unfairly and inaccurately represented on the Materials Sustainability Index, saying that the Higg index indicates that silk is 30 times worse than polyester in terms of environmental sustainability factors. Now, Jeremy Lardeau has said before that it isn't intended to be used to compare across material categories only within material categories, such as organic versus conventional cotton. But if you listen to Episode 46 about the myths involved in cotton, in particular about organic using substantially less water than conventional cotton. You can see that there are many variables that influence the material and global averages can lead to misinformation. So it's not as clear cut as just keeping it between materials. And even though they've said it's not meant to be compared across material groups, if you put yourself in the customers shoes, what do you think they're likely to do with numbers on different products? And that's not even getting into who decides what the best available data is for each category to use on indexes. So who's using this tool? Well, a lot of businesses. Over 500 brands including Nike, H&M, Amazon, Patagonia, and Zalando. According to Jeremy Lardeau, the Higg index user base has increased to 21,483 organisations across 119 countries, with membership covering approximately 40% of the apparel, footwear and home textiles industry. So that is a lot of the industry using this tool, which is why the latest ruling has a lot of businesses and people in the industry paying close attention to what happens next. Just a week ago, Norwegian authorities ruled the Higg as unlawful, determining it misleads consumers. In a landmark case, it recently ruled that sportswear retailer Norrøna, I'm probably saying that wrong, that the use of The Higg labels breach advertising guidelines and is misleading to consumers. It says Norrøna has based its advertising on the industry tool Higg MSI, which measures the environmental impact of various textiles. The Norwegian Consumer Protection Authority has concluded that this tool is not sufficient as a basis for the environmental claims they have used in marketing. They go on to say we would like to emphasise that using the Higg MSI and or data from The Higg MSI, in marketing towards consumers will be considered misleading and constitute a breach of the Marketing Control Act. They even went as far to advise the Sustainable Apparel Coalition it could face economic sanctions in Norway, if similar Higg related breaches of its Marketing Control Act, as in the Norrøna case, are found after the first of September 2022 and remind them of their close collaboration with other countries consume authorities within the EU. What a bombshell! Now the Higgs CEO Amina Razvi did respond to a New York Times article in particular that was reporting the finding, with a statement on their website saying amongst other things, that there is no favouritism of synthetic or natural fibres, and again, it wasn't designed to compare the two different materials and communication guidelines specifically prohibit doing that. And the aim of The Higg is to highlight hotspots of areas of improvement rather than a generalised measure of the sustainability of a material. Ms Razvi also said that suggesting the LCA tool should not be used at all risks paralysing the industry and hindering process at a time when action must be accelerated. Well, as always, I will put the links to the articles in the show notes on the website in the podcast section, so you can read them for yourself. But you can see there is a bit of argy bargy going on. And I am also interested in just how this unfolds. In summary, I think in concept the fashion industry does want a unified way to be able to measure and share their environmental impact. But I think the main issues that critics have with the system are valid. That for a tool that promises transparency to brands, they should be transparent with the underlying methodology and way of selecting data. Another criticism is that it's being developed within the industry rather than a third party unconnected to any sector. It's easy to think that there could be conscious or unconscious biases at play when choosing what data or study to include. And finally, that this and other systems are "pay to play", so to speak, that it isn't freely available to businesses. Obviously, there are costs involved to set up something like this. But perhaps there is another way to fund it that's more impartial and allows businesses of all sizes access. So what did you think of all that? Have you heard of the Higg index before? I'd love to know what you thought of it, you can email me at info@belindahumphrey.com or direct message or DM me on Instagram @belindahumphrey_ and again a reminder, you can sign up to my monthly newsletter by heading to my website belindahumphrey.com and like always, you'll find the show notes and any links on the website in the podcast section. Thanks so much for listening. See you next time. Thanks for listening to the Fashion Unearthed podcast. If you want to get in touch head over to belindahumphrey.com or you can find me on Instagram @belindahumphrey_ Disclaimer: Whilst every effort is made to ensure that information is accurate at the time of recording, much like the fashion industry itself, this information may change. 


Norway

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Higg Index

<p>The Higg Index is a well-known sustainability rating system for the fashion industry, aiming to help consumers choose garments based on their environmental impact. In June, 2022 the index was criticised for being too favorable to synthetic materials made from fossil fuels and for having controversial ties to fast fashion, eventually being banned by the Norway Consumer Authority for its use in marketing activity to consumers.</p>