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This collection has been built by a community of passionate researchers, students, and industry professionals as part of <a href="https://worldcirculartextilesday.com/" target="_blank">World Circular Textiles Day</a> (WCTD). 


World Circular Textiles Day takes place every year on 8th October. Our vision is to galvanise the collective ambitions and goals of people, organisations and businesses to reach a fully circular textiles world by 2050. Our mission is to provide a framework for circularity stakeholders to develop and deliver a collaborative, evolving roadmap and to chart circularity’s momentum annually from the 8th of October until 2050.

What does fully circular by 2050 mean?
- Shared textile resources, in the form of products and raw materials, are kept in **continual circulation**.
- Virgin resources are **replaced with circular materials**.
- Dignity, equity, and equality for the **people** involved in all parts of the circular value chain.

We need to know where we stand today to chart how to get to 100% Circularity by 2050. What circular activity is currently happening in the textiles and apparel industry, and where in the world is it happening? The WCTD Collection aims to answer this question by building the world’s largest digital library of circular textiles case studies. 

World Circular Textiles Day is proud to be supported by our 2022-23 Circular Hero Partners:
[Lenzing](https://www.lenzing.com/), [Texaid](https://retailsolutions.texaid.com/), [Bank & Vogue](https://www.bankvogue.com/), [Usha yarns limited](https://ushayarns.com/), [The Conduit](https://www.theconduit.com/), and [Asia Pacific Rayon](https://www.aprayon.com/en/)

## Want to contribute to the WCTD Collection? Sign up and add your circular textiles activities.

World Circular Textiles Day

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Business case

Impact on increased knowledge and understanding as a result of the case study

Increase Awareness

Reduced use of virgin materials and/or an increase of the use of secondary and bio-based materials

Reduce Material Consumption (SDG12)

Minimise waste through diversion: Instead of sending waste to landfill, it is redirected into other industrial processes for handling, treatment, recycling, recovery, or reuse in various forms. 

Minimise waste through design: At the outset of a process of project, plan and design such that there is zero waste or minimal waste during production, use, and at end of life. 

Minimise Waste (SDG12)

Reduced use and withdrawal of water and rate of recycling and reuse of water

Save Water (SDG6)

Reduced use of fossil fuel energy sources and/or increased use of renewable energy

Reduce Energy Consumption

Collecting waste from households and businesses by means of refuse bins, wheeled bins, containers, etc., and providing treatment, incineration, materials recovery and reclamation, and disposal of hazardous and non-hazardous waste

Waste Management

Producing textile and leather products and processing them into apparel and accessories

Fashion and Textiles

Providing goods on the Internet, through mail order, or television, or providing goods in stores, including apparel, electronics, furniture, food and drug, etc.

Retail

Designing products to remove any barriers to recycling and enable easy recyclability

Design for recycling

Designing products with a single material type to more easily recycle them after use

Design for recycling - mono-materials

Designing products to be reused for the same or different purposes in multiple lifecycles

Design for reuse

Develop regenerative infrastructure

VISION:
Raw materials are renewable, recyclable and safe, kept in continual circulation.

DETAIL:
Imagine a time when…the raw materials that are used to make things are sourced from existing products and regenerative agriculture, via carbon negative and climate neutral processes. Biodegradable raw materials are used for products with biodegradable end routes. Toxic chemicals have been washed out of the global materials pool, disposed of safely and replaced with beneficial alternatives. Virgin fibres made from fossil fuels have been banned, while secondary synthetic fibres, derived from what was already in the system, are kept in constant circulation as a resource. Circularity accounting methods, built on science-based metrics, help to manage a balanced system of resources, across all industries, and in line with the planet’s environmental limits.

Raw Materials and Planetary Boundaries

VISION:
Products and services are designed for multiple use and material value retention, with maximum positive impact.

DETAIL: 
Imagine a time when…products flow via optimal collection and distribution streams into reusable and repairable product platforms. Reuse and access models are dominant, and products are designed for multiple recirculation before biodegrading (if designed to do so), or being broken down into reusable raw materials for production. People only consume what they need. Production and consumption wastes have been fully eliminated and multifunctional, season-less and timeless fashions are the norm, yet still fulfil our human need for expression and creativity without constraint. All business models, organisations, governments and citizens play a role in maintaining a healthy, functioning circular ecosystem.

Products and Services

VISION:
People are valued and supported in an equitable, socially just and resilient society.

DETAIL:
Imagine a time when…people and communities are at the heart of any sustainable and circular system. The planet thrives, enabling us to survive with balance and abundance. People are no longer passive consumers, but proactive participants. The ‘makers’ who design, build, reprocess and recirculate products throughout the value chain are treated equally and are equitable partners in shaping and benefitting from the system. Textiles/garments can be produced and repurposed locally as well as centrally. A blend of craft methods alongside more automated production provides regionalised, multi-faceted perspectives and fulfilling livelihoods, be they high- or low-tech. Wealth gaps are minimised and dignity, equity, equality is a reality for all.

People and Society

Impacts

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Industries

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A framework of policy instruments that enabled and encourage the transition to the circular economy

Policy Instruments

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A framework of policy instruments that enable and stimulate the transition to the circular economy

The principles of a circular economy concern designing out waste, regenerating ecosystems and keeping items in use. Decoupling the economy from material flows—improving the rate of resource productivity faster than the economic growth rate—is also a consistent guide. By evolving with the growing number of applications of circular economy principles, and consolidating these strategies across thematic areas, Circle Economy’s Key Elements Framework (KE) renders the elements of the circular economy salient and serves as a basis to derive contextual strategies and interventions. 


The Framework consists of:
- Core Elements: Activities directly handling product or material flows; and uniquely,
- Enabling Elements: those that remove obstacles for core actors.


Key elements of the circular economy

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Circle Economy's framework of strategies and activities that define the circular economy

It is 2050.  Full systems change has taken place. This wouldn’t have been possible without the immediate action and radical steps taken from 2020 onwards. Many targets had to be identified in the early 2020s and achieved by 2030 to ensure that the 2050 goal happened in full. A sense of urgency, turbo stakeholder collaboration, supportive government regulation and clear, data driven targets enabled the mindsets and systems change needed to transform to a fully circular textiles ecosystem.

A circular economics model underpins what we have created. It reflects and supports a living organism made up of makers, users and restorers, interacting across vibrant and interconnected networks. Checks and balances, alongside transparency and accountability, ensure a healthy system. Financial, environmental, and social metrics have the purpose of serving communities and the planet. There is shared ownership of profit and loss – across all three metrics – throughout the value chain.

This is what we’ve achieved over the last 30 years:

WCTD Themes

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Based on the work of [Bocken et al. (2016)](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/309699661_Product_design_and_business_model_strategies_for_a_circular_economy), the Four Flows Framework serves as a simple framework for managing resource flows in a circular economy by using less (Narrow), using for longer (Slow), using again (Cycle), and using clean, regenerative materials and energy (Regenerate).

These different principles of circular economy can be applied to our socioeconomic metabolism: we can design stocks like buildings, infrastructure, machinery, and vehicles to be rich resource mines for the future, and design manufactured goods and consumables to be cycled and made regenerative. Furthermore, the focus must also centre on getting more value out of fewer materials. Achieving the aims of a circular economy—minimising material use, regenerating the Earth, and preventing material losses—can be done through these four key strategies mentioned above.

Source: Circle Economy. (2023). *[The circularity gap report 2023](https://www.circularity-gap.world/2023)* (p.22). Amsterdam: Circle Economy. 

Four Flows Framework

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 It’s good to have you back. You know what to do!   InsideDenim.com cannot be held responsible for content if the language setting is changed from English. The translations provided by Google Translate are automated and therefore might not be accurate and may contain incorrect, offensive or misleading language. We offer this facility as a guide only.   




 
Habitat for Humanity Tuscaloosa


 
Habitat for Humanity Central Arizona


 
Habitat for Humanity Los Angeles
Habitat for Humanity of San Joaquin County 
Habitat of Humanity San Diego
Habitat for Humanity Westside Merced County


 
Habitat for Humanity Vail Valley


 
Habitat for Humanity West Liberty


 
Habitat for Humanity of Greater Baton Rouge
New Orleans Area Habitat for Humanity 
East St. Tammany Habitat for Humanity 
St. Tammany West Habitat for Humanity






 
Patuxent Habitat for Humanity


 
Macomb County Habitat for Humanity


 
Habitat for Humanity of the Mississippi Gulf Coast 
Columbus-Lowndes Habitat for Humanity 


 
Habitat for Humanity of Greensboro
Habitat for Humanity of Charlotte
Our Towns Habitat for Humanity
Habitat for Humanity of Gaston County
Habitat for Humanity Lincoln County
Habitat for Humanity of Wake County


 
Habitat for Humanity of Westchester
Habitat for Humanity of Suffolk Habitat for Humanity Nassau County 


 
Champaign County Habitat for Humanity






 
Habitat for Humanity of Cambria County


 
Central South Carolina Habitat for Humanity 
Greater Florence Habitat for Humanity 
Charleston Habitat for Humanity 
Habitat for Humanity of York County 
Habitat for Humanity of Greenville County


 
Bay Area Houston Habitat for Humanity
Rio Grande Habitat for Humanity


 
Habitat for Humanity of Northern Virginia
Amherst County Habitat for Humanity
Richmond Metropolitan Habitat for Humanity


 
Habitat for Humanity of Washington DC


 
Habitat for Humanity of the Greater Teton Area






      

Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications  
Contents 

List of contributors xiii 
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xv 
Preface xxiii 
1 Denim and jeans: an overview 1 
R. Paul 
1.1 Introduction 1 
1.2 Denim fabric manufacture 2 
1.3 Manufacture and finishing of jeans 4 
1.4 Novel applications and environmental aspects 8 
1.5 Future trends 10 
1.6 Conclusion 11 
Sources of further information 11
Part One Denim fabric manufacture 13 
2 Cotton fibre for denim manufacture 15 
J. McLoughlin, S. Hayes and R. Paul 
2.1 Introduction 15 
2.2 Cotton cultivation 15 
2.3 Fibre properties 17 
2.4 Cotton fibre processing 20 
2.5 Spinning of denim yarns 26 
2.6 Developments in cotton for denim 32 
2.7 Future trends 34 
2.8 Conclusion 35 
Sources of further information 35 
References 36 
3 Indigo dye and reduction techniques 37 
R.B. Chavan 
3.1 Introduction 37 
3.2 Indigo popularity for denim 37 
3.3 Dyes other than indigo 38 
3.4 History of indigo 39 
3.5 Indigo production 40 
3.6 Indigo properties 48 
3.7 Reduction of indigo 49 
3.8 Traditional and modern dyeing methods 57 
3.9 Future trends 59 
3.10 Conclusion 61 
References 61 
4 Indigo dyeing technology for denim yarns 69 
N. Meksi and M.F. Mhenni 
4.1 Introduction 69 
4.2 Evolution of indigo dyeing 70 
4.3 Indigo dyeing techniques 73 
4.4 Indigo dyeing machinery 82 
4.5 Factors affecting indigo dyeing 89 
4.6 Testing and quality control 94 
4.7 Future trends 101 
4.8 Conclusion 101 
Sources of further information 102 
Acknowledgement 102 
References 102 
5 Dyeing of denim yarns with non-indigo dyes 107 
M. Sanchez 
5.1 Introduction 107 
5.2 General considerations 108 
5.3 Options for non-indigo dyeing 112 
5.4 Non-indigo dyes for fabric overdyeing 150 
5.5 Modern colouration possibilities 153 
5.6 Future trends 154 
5.7 Conclusion 155 
Sources of further information 155 
References 156 
6 Weaving technologies for manufacturing denim 159 
M.A. Raina, Y.S. Gloy and T. Gries 
6.1 Introduction 159 
6.2 Historical aspects 159 
6.3 Fibres for denim manufacture 160 
6.4 Yarns for denim manufacture 162 
6.5 Preparation of denim yarns 164 
6.6 Technologies for denim weaving 167 
6.7 Denim weaving machines 174 
6.8 Weaving with intelligent machines 178 
6.9 Manufacture of high quality denim 179 
6.10 Future trends 185 
6.11 Conclusion 185 
References 186
Part Two Manufacture and finishing of jeans 189 
7 Role of denim and jeans in the fashion industry 191 
C. Regan 
7.1 Introduction 191 
7.2 Denim fabric and apparel business 192 
7.3 Soft value of denim jeans 193 
7.4 History of denim and jeans 193 
7.5 Social influence of jeanswear 199 
7.6 Cultural influence of denim work wear 200 
7.7 Denim as luxury attire 205 
7.8 Future trends 210 
7.9 Conclusion 214 
References 214 
8 Joining techniques for denim jeans 219 
S. Hayes and J. McLoughlin 
8.1 Introduction 219 
8.2 Seams in the construction of jeans 219 
8.3 Stitch types in jeans manufacture 228 
8.4 Sewing threads for jeans 236 
8.5 Sewing needles for jeans 239 
8.6 Machines for making jeans 246 
8.7 Fabric feed systems 249 
8.8 Stitching of denim jeans 254 
8.9 Sewing faults and troubleshooting 259 
8.10 Attaching fastenings on jeans 263 
8.11 Future trends 268 
8.12 Conclusion 268 
Sources of further information 269 
Acknowledgements 270 
References 270 
9 Dyeing technologies for denim garments 271 
A.K. Sarkar 
9.1 Introduction 271 
9.2 Garment dyeing processes 272 
9.3 Garment dyeing machinery 276 
9.4 Advances in garment dyeing 278 
9.5 Testing and quality assurance 281 
9.6 Future trends 282 
9.7 Conclusion 283 
References 283 
10 Digital printing techniques for denim jeans 287 
J.M. Lucas, N.J.R. Belino, R.A. Miguel, M.M. Pereira and 
L.S. Ribeiro 
10.1 Introduction 287 
10.2 Textile characteristics 289 
10.3 Inkjet printing machines 291 
10.4 Colour technology and management 294 
10.5 Techniques for developing digital denim 301 
10.6 Future trends 308 
10.7 Conclusion 309 
Sources of further information 309 
References 310 
11 Washing techniques for denim jeans 313 
C.W. Kan 
11.1 Introduction 313 
11.2 Classification of washing techniques 315 
11.3 Denim and jeans washing machines 336 
11.4 Factors affecting washing effect 342 
11.5 Troubleshooting in denim washing 346 
11.6 Future trends 352 
11.7 Conclusion 352 
Sources of further information 353 
Acknowledgement 353 
References 353 
12 Biotechnological washing of denim jeans 357 
A. Colomera and H. Kuilderd 
12.1 Introduction 357 
12.2 Types of industrial enzymes 357 
12.3 Enzymes for jeans washing 359 
12.4 Biotechniques and process recipes 375 
12.5 Factors affecting washing effectiveness 381 
12.6 Backstaining phenomenon 389 
12.7 Troubleshooting guidelines 391 
12.8 Sustainable developments in washing 392 
12.9 Future trends 402 
12.10 Conclusion 402 
Sources of further information 402 
13 Reduced water washing of denim garments 405 
B. Garcia 
13.1 Introduction 405 
13.2 Techniques for reducing water in denim washing 406 
13.3 Industrial application scenarios 414 
13.4 Factors affecting process effectiveness 418 
13.5 Testing the effectiveness of washing 420 
13.6 Future trends 422 
13.7 Conclusion 422 
References 423 
14 Finishing of jeans and quality control 425 
F. Kalaoglu and R. Paul 
14.1 Introduction 425 
14.2 Dry and wet finishing processes 425 
14.3 Printing techniques 435 
14.4 Finishing of denim fabrics 436 
14.5 Functional finishing of denim jeans 439 
14.6 Final operations and inspection 443 
14.7 Quality control in jeans production 447 
14.8 Future trends 457 
14.9 Conclusion 457 
Acknowledgements 458 
References 458 
15 Comfort aspects of denim garments 461 
M.M. Mangat and L. Hes 
15.1 Introduction 461 
15.2 Comfort aspects of denim 461 
15.3 Thermo-physiological comfort 462 
15.4 Development of functional denim 464 
15.5 Testing of comfort parameters 475 
15.6 Future trends 477 
15.7 Conclusion 478 
References 478 
Part Three Novel applications and environmental aspects 481 
16 Novel varieties of denim fabrics 483 
A.K. Patra and A.K. Pattanayak 
16.1 Introduction 483 
16.2 Pseudo denim and generic denim 483 
16.3 Reverse denim 488 
16.4 Stretch denims 490 
16.5 Denim of other fibres and blends 496 
16.6 Biodegradable denims and their properties 498 
16.7 Other types of denim 501 
16.8 Future trends 503 
16.9 Conclusion 504 
References 504 
17 Non-apparel applications of denim 507 
Ö.E. İşmal and L. Yıldırım 
17.1 Introduction 507 
17.2 Classification of non-apparel denim products 508 
17.3 Analysis of the current situation 508 
17.4 Other interesting developments 519 
17.5 Future trends 521 
17.6 Conclusion 523 
Sources of further information 523 
References 525 
18 Recovery and recycling of denim waste 527 
A. Luiken and G. Bouwhuis 
18.1 Introduction 527 
18.2 Problem with denim waste 528 
18.3 Recovery techniques for denim waste 530 
18.4 Recycling of denim waste 531 
18.5 Development of recycled products 535 
18.6 Environmental benefits of denim recycling 536 
18.7 Future trends 538 
18.8 Conclusion 538 
Sources of further information 539 
19 Effluent treatment in denim and jeans manufacture 541 
N. Uzal 
19.1 Introduction 541 
19.2 Characteristics of wastewater 542 
19.3 Techniques for treating wastewater 543 
19.4 Wastewater recovery and reuse 553 
19.5 Case studies 556 
19.6 Future trends 557 
19.7 Conclusion 557 
References 558 
20 Environmental impacts of denim manufacture 563 
W. Schrott and R. Paul 
20.1 Introduction 563 
20.2 Cotton production for denim 565 
20.3 Dyes for denim dyeing 566 
20.4 Dyeing auxiliaries 569 
20.5 Combined dyeing processes 571 
20.6 Minimal application technologies 572 
20.7 Auxiliaries and finishing chemicals 573 
20.8 Garment washing and finishing 575 
20.9 Distribution and retail 577 
20.10 Future trends 578 
20.11 Conclusion 578 
Sources of further information 579 
References 579 
Index 581 


This book is US$10. Order for this book:(Request for free sample pages click on "Order Now" button) 
 Or, Send email: [email protected] 

United States

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Established in 2006 by Cotton Incorporated, a not-for-profit organisation founded in 1970 to support the global cotton industry, Cotton’s Blue Jeans Go Green™ denim recycling program is an industry sustainability initiative. The program helps to further the movement for a greener world through educating and empowering individuals and organisations to recycle old denim, made from cotton, and extend its lifecycle by turning it into something new.

Cotton incorporated 

The Blue Jeans Go Green™ program collects denim (made from cotton) so that it can be recycled back to its original fibre state and transformed into something new. An old denim can be kept out of a landfill and given a new life as committed by Cotton incorporated. Cotton Incorporated explains the story of denim fashion and its recycling program to consumers in three simple steps:Step 1Long before denim is recycled, it’s harvested in its original state: cotton. From there, the cotton is spun, woven, and prepared for garment manufacturers to craft into denim apparel.Step 2Next, denim finds its way to a retail store. And since it’s made to last, denim has a way of becoming a staple in consumer's wardrobe, protecting and comforting consumer.Step 3Once it’s worn out, consumer can continue its purpose by recycling it. Cotton Incorporate collects denim to divert it from landfills, where it would otherwise join the millions of pounds of textiles thrown out every year.