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Added: Aug 06, 2021
Last edited: Oct 20, 2022
The Destination Zero report produced by Greenpeace provides a review of its 'Detox My Fashion' campaign which focuses on abolishing hazardous chemicals used by the textile industry, which often end up in water systems. The report discusses the campaign's progresses, achievements, and challenges and barriers. In addition, it provides recommendations on the next-steps that could be applied by individual players within the industry on a global scale.
The traditional textiles industry is oftentimes associated with the heavy use of hazardous chemicals and production processes that contribute to water stream pollution globally. Multi-coloured rivers, resulting from the dyeing and clothes processing procedures create numerous social and environmental problems. The hazardous chemicals can increase the risk of cancer and disrupt hormonal systems in humans and animals. It disrupts the functioning of the aquatic ecosystem, and when accumulated, could create further health and livelihood impacts along the food chain. Yet regulations have not always been built in ways for brands to take the responsibility and prevent them from releasing toxic chemicals into the environment, especially in the Global South as discussed in the report.
In 2011, Greenpeace launched the “Detox My Fashion” campaign as an attempt to uncover the severity of the problem. It looked into the whole supply chain of the apparel industry, including the production factories and international clothing brands. The campaign challenged big clothing brands to 'take responsibility for their environmental impacts and to commit to achieve zero discharges of hazardous chemicals by 2020, including help to trigger policy changes in Europe and Asia.'
However, monitoring of the campaign's progress is needed to ensure commitment and to determine the effective next-steps.
In light of the importance of progress monitoring and the strengthening and advancing of knowledge, The Destination Zero report is made to track the progress of global clothing brands and suppliers in detoxing from hazardous chemicals, as well as identifying future challenges for all players within the industry. The report also addressed major joint challenges and mapped out the next steps to achieve a hazardous-free future.
There are several key findings discussed in the report:
- All of the committed brands and players in the campaign were showing some effort in delivering a hazardous-free future, but their paces varied due to the different challenges faced within the complex and global supply chain.
- Some examples of achievements made by the campaign includes: the setting up of a black list of hazardous chemicals (i.e. the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) banned across all stages of manufacturing with ambitious target levels and elimination timelines; The establishment of the Zero Discharges of Hazardous Chemicals foundation; The elimination of hazardous PFCs by almost all committed detox companies; The triggering of policy changes including: China's enforcement of stricter wastewater standards, the EU banning import of textiles containing hazardous chemicals nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) that should enter into force in 2020, and a proposed EU regulation on cancer causing substances in textiles.
- A major pain point also identified throughout the campaign's journey includes the establishing of long-term relationships with suppliers
- Although committed brands realised the need and importance of substituting their hazardous chemicals, there were numerous barriers raised. These include: the cost, availability and robustness of alternatives, the need for extensive assessment, and insufficient recognition and assistance from regulators and the chemical industry
- The report called for several next steps: There is an urgent need for policy-makers to take stringent responsibilities and translate the best practice (in terms of cost and robustness) into regulation. There is also the need for the chemical industry to be more transparent on the formulations they provide, and to increase investment on safer alternatives.
The companies in the report represents 15 % of global clothing production.
global collaboration
water pollution
chemicals