This report is based on a research project funded by the Lifestyle and Design Cluster and collectively undertaken by the Royal Danish Academy, KEA and Design School Kolding. The aim of the report is to uncover the barriers and main drivers to a design-led circular textile industry in Denmark. The project involved companies from four textile areas: fashion, workwear, carpets and furniture. It presents insights from case studies which were shared during workshops. 

In Denmark, around 677 tonnes of unsold clothing products are discarded every year. There is an issue of overproduction and under-use with garments that become waste. It has not improved with Covid-19, during which many goods were left unsold. Overall, Danes discard around 36,000 tonnes of textiles each year. About 30% is being resold in flea markets, social media and resale platforms in Denmark. However, 11% is incinerated, 19% is down-cycled and the rest is sold on the global resale market.

The sector of furniture textiles is very different since most of these products are manufactured in Denmark and sold all around the world. This is a challenge because it complicates take-back schemes for companies. Furthermore, due to fire regulations in design, these products usually include elements like glue or other unique treatments which makes repurposing difficult. 

1st Case Study

Veras Vintage (VV) is a platform for swapping, selling, buying, upcycling and reusing clothes. The idea was to look at the design characteristics of what VV received, sorted and sold. Three design categories were identified: the condition of the clothing, aesthetic and technical attributes, and market potential. Then a score can be given for each category. Based on this score which represents the resale value, VV could sort the clothes more effectively. The sorting levels include:

1. Sell garments at the shop

2. Sell garments at their flea market stand

3. Upcycle garment

4. Give garments to NGOs for export, resale or repurpose

2nd Case Study

With fashion brands GANNI and By Malene Birger, the problem of sizing and fit was explored. The idea was to reduce returns which have an environmental impact through transport emissions and can, at times, be discarded by the companies. To improve, a closer collaboration between designers and pattern-cutting technicians at the beginning of the design development phase is critical. Moreover, further tests must be done to determine the right fit and sizing.

3rd Case Study

With Dansk Milton, a carpet manufacturer, the study examined the issue of fire retardants and surface treatment for repurposing, exploring alternatives with less environmental impact.

4th Case Study

Kvadrat Really CPH is a cooperation between Kvadrat and Really CPH, which specialise in the use of fibre waste for the development of boards and felts. The workshops with several fashion industry actors and brands, such as H&M, explored how the non-woven industry works today and how textile fibres can be experimented with and used for new purposes. 

These various case studies supported design innovations in the fashion and interior design industry to improve circularity within those sectors in Denmark. In the meantime, they support early stage projects in scaling up.

Lifecycle and Design Cluster. (2021). Design for Circularity in Denmark. https://ldcluster.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/12/Take-Back-of-Textiles_Design-for-Circularity-komprimeret.pdf