BIOCOUTURE: Garments with living bacteria | Knowledge Hub | Circle Economy Foundation
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Business case
BIOCOUTURE: Garments with living bacteria
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Suzanne Lee, CEO and founder of Biofabricate, coined the term ‘Biocouture™’ in 2004 to describe her pioneering research exploring the use of living cultures of microorganisms (yeast and green tea bacteria) to grow biomaterials like cellulose into sustainable and compostable clothing — a material with similar properties to leather.

 

By bringing knowledge from scientists’ labs into fashion production, Biocouture presented a visionary and creative perspective of the fashion industry with significant resource efficiencies: from reducing the water, energy and chemistry needed in the production of a material, to generating zero waste.

The Biocouture™ project which transitioned to a biocreative consultancy, ended in 2013. However, her work has influenced researchers and designers throughout the world.

Problem

Nowadays, there is increasing demand for compostable materials that can be produced with minimal raw materials, toxins and water, however there is currently no home for all the research, experiments, projects, and inspiration around ‘grown materials’ to meet this need. As a matter of fact, in 2020, only one or two biofabricated textile products were on the market.

Solution

Biocouture™ addressed the pressing environmental issues around garment and fibre production, to think about more efficient ways to manufacture a garment.

Through biofabrication, many intensive man-made steps can be replaced with one biological step. Instead of growing a plant, like cotton, in a field over several months, microbes can grow a similar cellulose material in a lab in a few days — a model that is closer to brewing or the food industry than to a textile factory.

Outcome

Biocouture™ visionary perspective demonstrated that there is a whole spectrum of organisms such as bacteria, yeast, fungi and algae that could be harnessed to produce new fabrics.

Additional information

(Photo by Redesign Magazine on Flickr)

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