While the apparel and fashion industry will undoubtedly play an increasingly important role in building a more personalised, creative society that respects individuality and embraces diverse values, its transition to a circular economic structure nevertheless remains imperative. The most recent forecasts predict that the global population will exceed 8.5 billion people by 2030. If the Paris Agreement is to be fulfilled, one out of every five pieces of clothing would need to be part of a recycling-oriented circular business model by that time. For this and other reasons, the fashion industry is being pressed to transform its structure across the supply chain with the help of technological innovation.

Moreover, the continued overuse of synthetic materials is causing harm to our planet. The extraction and refining of fossil fuels—which are used to create materials like polyester and polyurethanes—is linked to water poisoning, air and land pollution and global warming.

The launch is the first time a product made from ‘Brewed Protein’ fibres will be available worldwide for purchase and also marks the beginning of a multiyear partnership between Pangaia and Spiber to find bio-based alternatives to fossil fuel and animal-derived fibres.

Spiber Inc. is a Japanese biotechnology start-up that uses cutting-edge synthetic biology, polymer, and material science to make its ‘Brewed Protein’ materials made from plant-derived biomass using a proprietary fermentation process that produces a biological building block that can be sculpted for different applications. One specific proposal of Spiber Inc. for contributing to sustainable well-being is Biosphere Circulation, in which materials from the biosphere (such as sugars and proteins) are incorporated into industry. This approach would lead to an integrated ecosystem, uninhibited by the barriers that traditionally exist between the natural and industrial worlds.

‘Brewed Protein’ polymers can be transformed into a variety of forms, from delicate filament fibres with a silky sheen to spun yarns that have cashmere-like softness or the thermal and moisture-wicking properties of wool.

How it works:

1. A database of DNA sequences from different organism found in nature is built and analyzed.

2. A new DNA is designed and synthesized.

3. The synthetic DNA is inserted into highly productive micro organisms (microbes).

4. The micro organisms are fed sugars to produce polymers.

5. Fermentation occurs when sugar is broken down.

6. Polymers are separated from fermentation residue, leaving protein powder.

7. The Brewed Protein™ powder is then spun into staple fibers.

8. These fibers are blended with organic cotton to create the NXT GEN Hoodie.

Pangaian and Spiber say that ‘Brewed Protein’ fibres are “well-positioned to address numerous pressing environmental issues and risks,” unlike many existing synthetic materials. Their large-scale production is expected to produce significantly lower greenhouse gas emissions and require less land and water use than traditional animal-derived fibres such as cashmere.

Photo taken by Wassim Chouak on Unsplash